#REDLINE DIESEL INSTALL#
#REDLINE DIESEL FULL#
#REDLINE DIESEL PLUS#

We are suggesting a new approach to the electrical installation of the Redline Performance Box to make installation easier and less time consuming. Keep in mind the display says only вЂњPYROвЂќ until the EGTs are above 150 degrees. If the wires are backwards in the green plug the Redline Box will not display exhaust temperatures, and no damage will result, so you can safely swap wire locations to get the display to read temp. Be sure to use the same type of wire and lengths for both leads. If you already have a pyrometer and want to use the thermocouple from that installation, or add the Redline Box to that gauge so both gauges work, you may do so by just extending the thermocouple wires by twisting or crimping normal stranded wires to the red and yellow or white and black wires at the back of the existing gauge. Never solder other wires to a thermocouple or it wonвЂ™t read/work correctly.

The yellow wire from the thermocouple should be attached to the terminal in the green plug closest to the outside of the box and the red to the inner terminal of the green plug. Cut the spade terminals off the red/yellow wires and strip off a little insulation to attach the wires to the green plug connector. The green plastic plug can be removed from the box by pulling on it straight away from the box. The other end of the extension cord should be inserted into the little green plastic plug on the back of the box and retained by tightening the screws on the bottom of the green plug. Connect the two leads of the thermocouple to the red/yellow extension cord. Run the tap almost all the way into the hole to get the best position for the thermocouple. The hole should be drilled with a 29/64вЂќ drill bit, but a 7/16вЂќ will do.

#REDLINE DIESEL INSTALL#

If you need this torx bit for installing the replacement cover, we will sell it to you for a very reasonable price.Дrill a hole in the turbo outlet elbow anywhere convenient and tap hole with a 1вЃ„4вЂќ pipe thread tap and install the thermocouple assembly.

#REDLINE DIESEL PLUS#

The вЂњ25 TORXвЂќ is a six point solid bit and the вЂњ25 TORX PLUS TAMPERPROOFвЂќ bit is hollow and has ONLY five points. The date that they went to вЂњTORX PLUS TAMPERPROOFвЂќ was approximately the change to 2001 model year, but replacement pumps often have the tamperproof screws, so it is best to look at your pump first to determine what youвЂ™ll need. You will need either a вЂњ25 TORXвЂќ bit or a вЂњ25 TORX PLUS TAMPERPROOFвЂќ bit to remove the injection pump cover and install the replacement cover. Small, 1/8вЂќ or so, flat bladed screwdriver

#REDLINE DIESEL FULL#

You may return this product before you install it for a full refund if you do not agree with the terms and conditions explained in the waiver.Д®lectric drill with either a 29/64вЂќ or 7/16вЂќ bitДЎвЃ„4вЂќ pipe tap, a number 2 phillips screwdriver I will now return you to you regularly scheduled synthetic rhetoric.DO NOT INSTALL THIS BOX WITHOUT READING, SIGNING AND RETURNING THE DISCLAIMER OF LIABILITY FORM STAPLED TO THESE DIRECTIONS вЂ‹ INSTALLATION OF THIS PRODUCT INDICATES THAT THE END USER HAS READ, UNDERSTOOD AND AGREES WITH THE DISCLAIMER OF LIABILITY AGREEMENT вЂ‹ Could he go 50-60k km? Could he even keep his hands off the wrenches that long? Only he knows. Is he willing to do that? In fact, there are a lot of dino Dmax UOAs that show (even when towing) 10k miles is not out of the question. To just break even, he'd have to run this out to 40k km or 7-8 years. If those are in decent shape, then why not choose the least cost product that provides the 'same' results? UOAs are supposed to be tools to track the direct health of the lube, and the indirect health of the equipment. But it is foolish to ignore the topic of ROI when viewing a UOA. I fully understand that everyone is entitled to buy/use what they deem appropriate I wouldn't have it any other way. If he does not GREATLY extend his OCI, he's wasting money big time. But it surely didn't result in 3x or 4x less wear now, did it? So if RL didn't provide 'better' wear protection, then what can it give? The only alternative is to get 'longer' wear protection. I'm not saying the RL didn't do a decent job it did.

He probably spent 3x or more money for RL, and got the exact same UOA results that I did, under nearly identical conditions, for the same duration. Over the same mileage (he's near 6.6k miles) and two seaons of towing (my UOA is also mostly towing, and was especially as brutal as I could make it), his wear metals and other criteria are no 'better' than mine. (Boring in a good way).Д«ut compare/contrast this current UOA thread to my recent dino 10w-30 HDEO UOA: There is nothing alarming here, and to be honest, it's another boring Dmax UOA. Allow me to be the voice of discontent (as expected).

Redline diesel